vince3004

la seul chose qu'il faut que tu te dise, c'est que tout ce qu'il y a AVANT le trait d'union, c'est la famille du moteur, exemple; 4a-fe 4a-ge 4a-gze 4a-c Dans ce cas ce sont tous des 1.6L, ce sont des moteur de la meme famille, en terme de conception Tu pourrai avoir un moteur semblable au 2az, de la meme famille et il s'appelerai 2az-gze, voulant dire que c'est un moteur DOHC, entrainé les 2 en meme temps par une chaine ou une strap, a injection et supercharger.

Turbo vs. Supercharger It's one of the most common questions we are asked - the answer to which is almost impossible to find "What is better - a supercharger or a turbo?" We only wish the answer were that simple, but unfortunately it is not. The simple answer is: "It depends." But don't worry, we'll go into more depth than that here. Both superchargers and turbos have distinct advantages and disadvantages. Selecting the right kind of forced induction for your vehicle will depend upon your particular vehicle, your driving habits, your power preferences, and your needs. Clearing Up Confusion According to Merriam-Webster's dictionary, a supercharger is defined as: "a device (as a blower or compressor) for pressurizing the cabin of an airplane or for increasing the volume air charge of an internal combustion engine over that which would normally be drawn in through the pumping action of the pistons". A turbocharger is defined as: "a centrifugal blower driven by exhaust gas turbines and used to supercharge an engine". According to Webster's, a turbocharger is included in the definition for superchargers - it is in fact a very specific type of supercharger - one that is driven by exhaust gasses. Other superchargers that do not fall into this category - the kind that we are all used to hearing about - are normally driven directly from the engine's crankshaft via a crank pulley. So in reality, it is not fair to compare all superchargers to turbochargers, because all turbochargers are also superchargers. For the purpose of this discussion, however, a supercharger will be considered all superchargers that are are not driven directly by the engine, while turbochargers will be considered all superchargers that are driven by engine exhaust gasses. Similarities Both superchargers and turbochargers are forced induction systems and thus have the same objective - to compress air and force more air molecules into the engine's combustion chambers than would normally be allowed at atmospheric pressure here on Earth (14.7 psi at sea level). The benefit of forcing more air molecules into the combustion chambers is that it allows your engine to burn more fuel per power stroke. With an internal combustion engine, burning more fuel means that you convert more fuel into energy and power. For this reason, supercharged and turbocharged engines normally produce 40% to 100%+ more power (depending on the amount of boost) than normally aspirated engines. How They Work supercharger is mounted to the engine and is driven by a pulley that is inline with the crank (or accessory) belt. Air is drawn into the supercharger and compressed by either an impeller (centrifugal-style supercharger), twin rotating screws (screw-type supercharger), or counter-rotating rotors (roots-type supercharger). The air is then discharged into the engine's intake. Faster crank speed (more engine rpm) spins the supercharger faster and allows the supercharger to produce more boost (normally 6 to 9 psi for a street vehicle). Typical peak operating speeds for a supercharger are around 15,000 rpm (screw-type and roots style superchargers) and 40,000 rpm (centrifugal-style superchargers). A turbocharger operates in much the same way as a centrifugal (internal impeller) supercharger, except it is not driven by pulleys and belts attached to the engine's crank. A turbo is instead driven by exhaust gasses that have been expelled by the engine and are travelling through the exhaust manifold. The exhaust gas flows through one half of the turbocharger's turbine, which drives the impeller that compresses the air. Typical operating speeds of a turbocharger are between 75,000 and 150,000 rpm. Head to Head Comparison Now it's time to evaluate the turbocharger versus the supercharger according to several important factors. Cost The cost of supercharger and a turbocharger systems for the same engine are approximately the same, so cost is generally not a factor. Lag This is perhaps the biggest advantage that the supercharger enjoys over the tubo. Because a turbocharger is driven by exhaust gasses, the turbocharger's turbine must first spool up before it even begins to turn the compressor's impeller. This results in lag time which is the time needed for the turbine to reach its full throttle from an intermediate rotational speed state. During this lag time, the turbocharger is creating little to no boost, which means little to no power gains during this time. Smaller turbos spool up quicker, which eliminates some of this lag. Turbochargers thus utilize a wastegate, which allows the use of a smaller turbocharger to reduce lag while preventing it from spinning too quickly at high engine speeds. The wastegate is a valve that allows the exhaust to bypass the turbine blades. The wastegate senses boost pressure, and if it gets too high, it could be an indicator that the turbine is spinning too quickly, so the wastegate bypasses some of the exhaust around the turbine blades, allowing the blades to slow down.. A Supercharger, on the other hand, is connected directly to the crank, so there is no "lag". Superchargers are able to produce boost at a very low rpm, especially screw-type and roots type blowers. Efficiency This is the turbo's biggest advantage. The turbocharger is generally more economical to operate as it as it is driven primarily by potential energy in the exhaust gasses that would otherwise be lost out the exhaust, whereas a supercharger draws power from the crank, which can be used to turn the wheels. The turbocharger's impeller is also powered only under boost conditions, so there is less parasitic drag while the impeller is not spinning. The turbocharger, however, is not free of inefficiency as it does create additional exhaust backpressure and exhaust flow interruption. Heat Because the turbocharger is mounted to the exhaust manifold (which is very hot), turbocharger boost is subject to additional heating via the turbo's hot casing. Because hot air expands (the opposite goal of a turbo or supercharger), an intercooler becomes necessary on almost all turbocharged applications to cool the air charge before it is released into the engine. This increases the complexity of the installation. A centrifugal supercharger on the other hand creates a cooler air discharge, so an intercooler is often not necessary at boost levels below 10psi. That said, some superchargers (especially roots-type superchargers) create hotter discharge temperatures, which also make an intecooler necessary even on fairly low-boost applications. Surge Because a turbocharger first spools up before the boost is delivered to the engine, there is a surge of power that is delivered immediately when the wastegate opens (around 3000 rpm). This surge can be damaging to the engine and drivetrain, and can make the vehicle difficult to drive or lose traction. Back Pressure Because the supercharger eliminates the need to deal with the exhaust gas interruption created by inserting a turbocharger turbine into the exhaust flow, the supercharger creates no additional exhaust backpressure. The amount of power that is lost by a turbo's turbine reduces it's overall efficiency. Noise The turbocharger is generally quiter than the supercharger. Because the turbo's turbine is in the exhaust, the turbo can substantially reduce exhaust noise, making the engine run quieter. Some centrifugal superchargers are known to be noisy and whistley which, annoys some drivers (we, however, love it!) Reliability In general, superchargers enjoy a substantial reliability advantage over the turbocharger. When a a turbo is shut off (i.e. when the engine is turned off), residual oil inside the turbo's bearings can be baked by stored engine heat. This, combined with the turbo's extremely high rpms (up to 150,000rpm) can cause problems with the turbo's internal bearings and can shorten the life of the turbocharger. In addition, many turbos require aftermarket exhaust manifolds, which are often far less reliable than stock manifolds. Ease of Installation Superchargers are substantially easier to install than a turbos because they have far fewer components and simpler devices. Turbos are complex and require manifold and exhaust modifications, intercoolers, extra oil lines, etc. - most of which is not needed with most superchargers. A novice home mechanic can easily install most supercharger systems, while a turbo installation should be left to a turbo expert. Maximum Power Output Turbos are known for their unique ability to spin to incredibly high rpms and make outrages peak boost figures (25psi+). While operating a turbocharger at very high levels of boost requires major modifications to the rest of the engine, the turbo is capable of producing more peak power than superchargers. Tunability Turbochargers, because they are so complex and rely on exhaust pressure, are notoriously difficult to tune. Superchargers, on the other hand, require few fuel and ignition upgrades and normally require little or no engine tuning. Conclusion While the supercharger is generally considered to be a better method of forced induction for most street and race vehicles, the turbo will always have its place in a more specialized market. Superchargers generally provide a much broader powerband that most drivers are looking for with no "turbo lag". In addition, they are much easier to install and tune, making them more practical for a home or novice mechanic. We hope you have found this discussion informative and unbiased. Sometimes when we explain this to our customers, they say that we are biased towards superchargers because that is all we carry. We remind those customers that a turbo is a kind of supercharger and that we truly hope to carry turbochargers someday. The reason we do not currently sell any turbochargers is because we have not yet found a turbo system that is suitable for mail-order / e-commerce sale. We are not prepared to sell a turbo system that is difficult to install and requires the attention of a professional engine tuner or mechanic. If any turbocharger manufacturer makes such a system, please send us the details as we would love to carry such a product.

5sfe (135hp) 3SGTE 2nd gen (225HP) 3SGTE 3rd gen (245hp) 3SGE (130hp) 3SGE BEAMS (190HP et 215HP)

Pour les amateurs de tercel voici une liste de pieces que vous pouvez emprunter sur une paseo 92 à 95 '91-'95 Paseo cluster fait dans un tercel '91-'94 '96-'99 Paseo cluster fait dans un tercel '95-'99 '96-'99 Paseo cluster ne fait pas dans un tercel '91-'94 '91-'95 Paseo cluster ne fait pas dans un tercel '95-'99 (paseo 92 a 95 vers un tercel 91 a 94) *5EFE moteur (besoin du ecu et fillage) *5-speed tranny *banc avant et arriere *instrument de cluster et le tach (vu plus haut) *front sway bar les pieces aftermarket de stabilité et suspension sont aussi interchangeable *front strut bar *front struts *rear shocks *drop spring *K&N air filter + Catalogue des pieces pour paseo/tercel http://www.socaltercel.com/rikos_Paseo_Cynos_catalogue1.pdf

Information tirer de: club4ag.com Liens: http://club4ag.com/faq%20and%20tech_pages/4A-GE%20History%20And%20Family%20Tree.htm Every Toyota “engine type” has a code consisting of numbers and letters. An “engine type” may actually be a family of engines spanning several design generations and encompassing different specifications or components. The first character is always a number followed by one or two letters. The number indicates the generation. The letter(s) indicates the engine family. Following the engine generation and family codes, there are different combinations of additional letters, each of which represent a specific engine characteristic: C - Equipped with emissions control systems (note: The “C” is not used if the engine was originally equipped for emissions controls.)(The C notation has been associated with California’s (USA), at that time having stricter emission standards) U - Equipped with emissions control systems for Japan. (The U notation has been associated with the introduction of Unleaded fuel available in Japan at that time) E - Electronic fuel injection (EFI) F - Gear coupled cam drive; dual overhead cam (DOHC) engine: timing belt or chain drives one cam, and “scissors” gear drives the other cam. [Narrow included valve angle]. The split “scissors” gear is a unique way to eliminate gear backlash. G - Dual overhead cam (DOHC) engine: timing belt or chain drives both cams. [Wide included valve angel] L - Transversely mounted in vehicle T - Turbocharged Z - Supercharged Examples: 4A - SOHC, 8 valves 4A-C - SOHC, 8-valves, equipped with emissions control system 4A-LC - SOHC, 8-valve, transversely mounted, equipped with emissions control system 4A-GE - DOHC, 16-valve, fuel injected 4A-GEC - DOHC, 16-valve, fuel injected, equipped with emissions control system 4A-GELC - DOHC, 16-valve, fuel injected, transversely mounted, equipped with emissions control system 4A-F - DOHC, 16-valve, gear coupled cam drive, carbureted 4A-FE - DOHC, 16-valve, gear coupled cam drive, fuel injected 4A-ELU - DOHC, 16-valve, gear coupled cam drive, fuel injected, transversely mounted, equipped with emissions control system for Japan. 4A-GZE - DOHC, 16-valve, supercharged and fuel injected

Information tirer de Club4ag.com Liens:http://club4ag.com/faq%20and%20tech_pages/Dampers.html Selecting shocks with you in mind About shocks... Yes, Bilstein are excellent shocks but I only say that in terms of quality and design. The question here is, does it offer the characteristic that you are looking for? All shocks are valved differently over many models and in different markets. It's hard to say since I have no experience with using all possible ones that fit the AE86. Saying that, we should look at which type of valving is correct for you with any brand you buy. Japanese market dampers usually have much stiffer compression rates than rebound (generally speaking). European shocks have more even damping generally between the two figures. It's also important to look at what rate of spring the shocks are designed to work. Adjustable struts and shocks have a set valving range and this may not always be within the parameter needed. So where do we stand? It's impossible to buy everything that is available right? Here's some advice. First measure your spring’s rate to see if you have the correct spring rate to start with. You can roughly check by using the highest grip tire you will be using regularly. In a wide-open space, circle around like a skidpad test...be sure you don’t induce pitching. The steering input and throttle should be constant. The point of this is to figure out you maximum stroke and body roll in conjunction at constant velocity maximum lateral force. Now to make things easier, tie a cable tie around the shock piston. (Make sure the road is smooth as possible too) This way, you can see afterwards how much of the suspension stroke you used during maximum G's. You should generally be at 80% of maximum stroke... You leave the last 20% for undulations in road and for transition driver input, which put more force. You have to remember; the instant the shocks bottom, the contact patch will deform to accommodate tire deformation, resulting in sudden loss of grip... If it's less than 80% you may increase tire grip or reduce spring rate, or choose a shorter spring. If it's more, you will need to raise the car (longer spring, reduce shock length, or reduce tire grip) Anyway, I hope you get the idea. Now, don't consider understeer or over steer at this point, that is done later after you match your tire with spring rate. Now when you are satisfied with spring rate, then you move onto choosing dampers (shocks). Its job is to not make the suspension stiffer or softer as many believe. That's the spring's job. The shocks are solely for the purpose of controlling the roll speed.... and this is how we adjust handling of the car. This is how we adjust what the car should be doing against driver input. That simply said is perhaps the most difficult part of suspension along with alignment. But here's a guideline. If your spring was matched to a specific shock, it's advisable to stay close to those valving rates. Using that as starting point, we go on to real suspension tuning. To increase the contact feel at the rear of the car, we can make the rear shocks do more work in balance with the front during cornering. If the loses grip in the rear suddenly, you can do one of the following. You can reduce the dive speed of the front suspension by valving the shocks stiffer on the compression side. Keep in mind that you are not changing the static balance of the suspension by doing so…or simply, you have only reduced the speed of the nose dive and not the amount of nose dive, the latter is done by springs. The car should begin to display some initial understeer followed by the same balance you had before as the suspension reaches its maximum travel. This should make the car feel more stable and predictable. Now similar effect can be achieved by raising the rebound rate in the rear, but most of the initial roll is created upon front dive during braking so you need to come up with a good balance of the two. By adjusting the rear rebound (expansion) stiffer, you will reduce lift (speed) in rear and thereby contribute also to reducing roll (dive) speed. The same amount of constant velocity balance is maintained while you have just improved the predictability of the car. This idea holds true to do other tuning. The key is balancing your driver input against what you can feel the car doing, making things predictable. Too soft of dampers will control speed of the spring’s actions less and too stiff will make the spring not work fast enough. Who wants to be tilted at the end of the corner when you need to be accelerating straight right? By not changing the spring rate, you have maintained what the car will do in the skidpad test earlier while making things more controllable. If you like the “amount of oversteer” but want to make it controllable, it’s the job of the shocks. If you did not like the amount of oversteer on the skidpad, then it’s not a matter of controlling your roll speed but amount of roll itself (spring, and sway bars) or your weight balance (ride height between front/rear). Unless your springs are very mismatched, the shocks generally can compensate and do a very good job of making the desired handling. (For fun and learning…but more detailed and expensive research is needed for actually raising the speed of the car’s cornering limit, which I cannot cover with the scope of today’s writing.) Anyway, applying the knowledge of common enthusiasts, we can now try to fix your complaint and take some mystery out of your initial confusion. “I'll try and define it, but it is just that, a tendency to oversteer too easily. It has an unnerving sensation that the rear wants to 'lift', and swap around to the front. … With minimal input the car takes a turn, the front takes it, but the rear seems to want to pitch up and out.” And… The best I can describe the handling sensation that I'm looking for is mild understeer to neutral going into a turn and a touch of 'tucked' oversteer coming out with throttle. Reducing roll speed with shocks can eliminate the suddenness that the car falls into oversteer. By working on the rebound side of the rear shocks, you can reduce the lift at the rear and stiffening the compression side at front should keep the rear planted to do its job. All this until you reach the desired cornering attitude predictably. Next, we work on the throttle induced oversteer… We want to decrease the level of traction so that the car will lose grip with addition of excessive power. To grasp this look at what happens when we step on the gas. If the rear grip doesn’t change while cornering and we add additional force of the engine, we bother the contact patch at the rear. Right? Thus the rear breaks loose. If rearward squat is created quickly upon accelerating, the car is shifting its weight quickly to the rear. This puts more grip at the rear and less in front producing a tendency to push forward upon throttle. So we want to reduce nose lift and tail squat…WAIT! Isn’t this reverse of what we did before? Yes, but now we look at it in conjunction. If your car was oversteering in the skidpad… Then from maximum cornering load, the rear has already a tendency to tail slide…in which case you may not have to do much at all. If it’s the other way and was understeering like a pig, then we need to think. To adjust this by shocks, you will have to go backwards of what we did and that’s not a full solution. So try adding the sway bar to the rear now… We have now added spring rate to the rear suspension only against sideways load. The stiffer rear spring (in terms of lateral motions) should give earlier signs of oversteer, but we can still do more adjustment to the shocks to smooth the curves. The same holds true for reducing the sway bar in front. This is dependent on how much roll you had in the first place. So you can go back to the first paragraph and skidpad test to figure what’s best. Just remember, springs will change both fore-aft roll and lateral roll while sway bars only alter your lateral roll.

Information tirer de: club4ag.com Liens: http://club4ag.com/faq%20and%20tech_pages/5A%20and%207A.htm 5age/7age Introduction The concept of increasing the stroke to gain displacement in a gasoline engine is an old trick. Nevertheless, it is still a very effective form of tuning today and the 4A-GE is no exception. In the late 80’s, HKS developed a conversion kit consisting of longer stroke crank and pistons for the 4A-GE. The line has been expanded to array of configurations, which range from 8.0-11.6 in compression rates. This kit was called appropriately, the 5A-GE kit. Also in the early 90’s, Toyota revised the Corolla engine and 7A-FE was introduced. This larger stroke cousin of the 4A-GE produced as much power as the 4A-GE, but was designed for a more mundane driving use. It wasn’t long before tuners discovered that the 4A-GE head could be adapted to the 7A-FE block to make a hybrid engine commonly nicknamed the 7A-GE. Both the 5A-GE and the 7A-GE is still a viable option today for those looking into the performance characteristics offered by such conversion, so we’ll take a quick look at these “stroker” modifications. Keep in mind though, that displacement isn't the only way to make power and a 4A-GE does have many other options. The 5A-GE Once a very popular mechanical tuning approach to the 4A-GE engine, the 5A-GE engines proved that more torque could be had in the otherwise peaky nature of the 4A-GE. It wasn’t without demerits but the 5A-GE did fare reasonably well in the enthusiast market. HKS makes a range of internal components to suit your needs and 5A-GE was one of them. The 11.6 compression kit comprised of longer stroke crank, 81.5mm pistons and various bearings, rings and fastener sets is the most aggressive. They are designed to be built using the 4A-GE and proved to be very high quality in design and materials. However, the 5A-GE isn’t without pitfalls so we’ll discuss a few here in detail. The first thing we must note in the 5A conversions is the fact that the block needs to be modified somewhat to make room for the longer stroke crankshaft. The 5A-GE kit uses this long crank stroke to make approximately 1700cc displacement but slapping this crankshaft into the 4A block; one will immediately discover that it won’t spin without hitting something. No, it’s not a defective unit… So we modify the block by grinding away the inside of the crank case…. by placing the crank and working away where it hits. The clearance here should be no less then 1mm so you can avoid damage when there’s engine failure elsewhere. Next, attach connecting rods and repeat procedure. One note here…never grind the rod or crank as this will upset the balance and strength of the moving pieces…unless you are doing it for the purpose of getting better balance. Second step, and the one most people forget, is the dynamic balancing of the crankshaft. Although the finish and materials is top notch when using HKS, the problem still lies in that the crank is longer in stroke. Often, the crank has worse balance than the 4A-GE unit that you took out, which is a real problem on an engine you plan to take to 7200rpm and beyond. An incorrectly balanced shaft can rob you of power beyond 7000rpm and more at higher rpm due to the inconsistent cylinder pressure and piston timing. Not to mention a myriad of failures it may induce in all sorts of places. The crank takes about 4 tons of force every stroke so think of it as being very flexible, contrary to how it may look when stationary. Balance, balance, balance… Areas for grinding on the block for clearance of a stroker crank and connecting rod bolts. Crank and connecting rods should be hand assembled and checked for adequate 0.050 inch. clearance between block and connecting rod bolts. Use 8mm Allen head to remove the front and back oil galley plugs for inspection and cleaning. Next, always use pistons designed for the 5A-GE or similar stroked crank. The 5A-GE pistons have a different piston-pin height, therefore cannot be crossed over. Furthermore, the block to be used should be as late model as possible. The 4A-GE, as we all know bay now, went through many production design phases and with each iteration the performance potential increased in terms of strength and heat resistance and dissipation. Not all 4A blocks are equal! Lastly, most important perhaps, the 5A-GE is an expensive and labor-intensive modification. So, its final outcome is whatever you put into it. Taking time and some careful planning of funds and components will give you a strong, high torque rating engine that’s as free revving as your 4A-GE. But shortcuts will cost heavily and the final product will just as easily be rough and unwilling to perform. The 7A-GE With the introduction of the 7A-FE, the 4A-GE tuners gained an easy option to use the longer stroke 7A-FE block to gain higher stroke figures previously reserved for the daring and the well financed. The 7A-FE made its debut on the more mundane Corolla sedans in 1992. The block design of the 4A was kept thus came the possibility to use the 4A-GE head. The birth of the 7A-GE hybrid… The characteristic of the 7A-GE is generally more subdued than in the peaky tuned 4A-GE, but for all of the maximum revs lost to the 4A, the 7A makes up in torque. With longer crank stroke, the 7A-GE’s cannot be revved as far due to known failures of connecting rods and bearings. The maximum power band usually falls at as little as 6800rpm, a sign of internal stress, meaning it’s way-past the physical redline… Most tuners recommend its use below 7500rpm. Despite its conversion to the true-twin cam design and free-flow head, the modification still produces all of the 117ft/lbs of torque of the original 7A-FE configuration, and the power gains from the 7A-GE varies but is in the general area of 10% over a similarly equipped 4A-GE. Note however, that in the 7A-FE, the peak power comes in earlier at around 5700rpm compared to the 6600rpm of the 4A-GE. Because this is a custom application, the figures may vary by individual project. Like the 5A-GE and more so, the 7A-GE is a very universal in drivability and is highly recommended for street machines looking for that little extra push, who see occasional autocross or ET traps. Those looking into more elaborate systems like turbo or high-rpm usage should, however stay with the 4A-GE design for it’s intended sporting nature and previous data and upgrade parts availability. Also, the flywheel attachment of the crankshaft is inherently weak on a 7A-FE so making it rev high or boosting too much power on it is a little bit risky. Having said these, let’s dive into the world of 7A-GE. Conversion to the 7A-GE hybrid need not be as complicated as the 5A-GE. This is because the block internals need not be torn apart and modified. Starting with a cleaned, adjusted and polished 4A-GE head, it can bolt right onto the 7A-FE block. This process is fairly elementary in nature… There are few differences in peripheral components depending on the engine orientation and the chassis it’s installed in, but all of the components should be readily available from one of the 2 engines you should have on hand the 7A-FE and the 4A-GE. The problem most people run into in this configuration is the timing belt. Because of the taller block of the 7A, the 4A-GE timing belt proved to be too short for the increased deck height. Why not use a 7A-FE belt? Well, the “FE” design head is a twin cam but is driven by the crank only on one cam. The other cam is driven off the powered cam by gears. A “slave-cam” twin. So what do we do? Traditionally, we had to go hunting in the bin at a parts store or junkyards. But, thanks to the few who visit Club4AG, a Porsche 924/944 has been rumored to fit. For this application, the crank cam-pulley from a 4A-GE has to be used… Obviously, the 7A-FE pulley will not drive the GE cams at the correct speed anyway… All else being done, the engine should have 1800cc and compression ratio of between 9.8 and 11 depending on which piston and 4A-GE head you used. Most applications use similar ECU and peripherals from the 4A-GE and seem to work quite well despite it’s increase in displacement. 7A-FE ECU is avoided because of it’s low rev-limiter and complexities in placing it in a car originally equipped with a 4A-GE. Perhaps an aftermarket ECU like the “Freedom” is potentially helpful in making it perform at it’s peak output with a particular grade of gasoline.

Jolie supra ;)

Rendu a 316000 kilo... jte conseille un swap, ce sera bcp moin compliqué! Ta le choix entre 4agze qui t'offre plus de torque a bas régime que les autre 4ag. TU peu aussi aller 4age 20v, un bon moteur si tu aime la rev! Tu peu aller a des rpm de plus de 8000-8500 rpm avec ces moteur la =D En plus, tu peu songer a un swap de tranny sois une C56(meme chose qu'une tranny de gts mais lsd.), aussi tu peu y aller avec une c160, une tranny lsd 6 vitesse close ratio ! Je te conseille un 4agze, ça serai mon choix personnelement . Le choix final te revien ^^

Hey hey bienvenu le grand ;)

Hey hey cool bienvenu mec

super le meet

salut mec

Hey hey voici une autre info sorti du club toyota québec ça vous prend absolument cette sorte la, dans la marque 3m; 051135-08609. Sinon ça marche pas http://importnut.net/motormount.htm

Ce qui me rend DINGUE, c'est les gens qui DORME en auto! Je veux dire, quand t'est a une lumiere pi que t'est 4 a pas partir parce que le 5eme en avant est trop vedge pour voir qu'elle est verte (wall) Ou bin ya ceux qu'on dirai qui son jamais sur de ce qu'il font!! Comme les twit que ça leur prend 15 minute tourner dans une intersection... comme si il avais peur de se faire rentrer dans le coté!!! Manné quand est verte pour toi, TOURNE PI ARRÊTE DE NIAISER :drive: Ya ceux qui te dépasse pour pogner une sortie d'autoroute 2 minute apres t'avoir dépassé... veux tu bin me dire quoscé ça leur donne???

Moé la j'ai un poelon de 25 pouce :boxe:

Yep, ya plein de truc pour améliorer la suspension d'un ae92 sedan... sauf que ya pas bcp de monde qui le save ;) UPDATE J'ai trouver sur le défunt club toyota, un site ou vous pouvez trouver des bushing de suspension en eurethane pour presque toute les toyota . Meme les ae92(sedan/GTS) y sont, d'ailleur c'est le seul site ou j'ai trouver des bushing d'eurethane pour des ae92!!! D'ailleur... si vous avez a changer vos tables sur votre ae92, ça serai une bonne chose a faire de changer les vieilles bushings pour des bushings eurethanes neuvent . Souvent les table que vous trouverez usagé dans les dumps on des bushings usées! Et en plus la bushing inseré presse-fit dans la table, ne se trouve pas nul par... À moins d'aller chercher une table neuve chez toyota, qui on les bushings inclus! Donc voici le lien; http://www.toyheadauto.com/PerformancePages/Polyurethane_Bushings.html

Bonjour! Je roule en ae92 gts et j'ai du chercher en tabarweit pour trouver des piece pour la suspension! Donc je me suis dis qu'il serai brillant de partager avec vous mes connaissances concernant ces voiture. Tout d'abord, coté suspension. J'ai utilisé des coil et des chock de ae101(corolla 93-97 4 porte). J'ai du utiliser des chock de ses modele la, puisqu'aucune compagnie ne garde de piece de suspension pour les ae92... ou sinon c'est discontinuer. Donc, si vous me suivez, les shock/spring son pareil de 1988 a 1997! Alor si vous voulez une belle suspension dropper sur votre ae92, commandez des piece de ae101(corolla 93-97) Pour les table de suspension, sur un ae92 gts, il peu arriver qu'elle sois rouillé ou meme que vous les ayez endomager lors d'un accident. Vu que les table coute pres de 200$ chez toyota!!! Je vous conseille de vous trouvez des table de corolla 88-91(ae92 sedan) et d'y souder une attache pour le link kit. Ça vous coutera moin de 80-90$ par table. Sur un ae92 sedan, vous pouvez améliorez votre suspension en mettant une sway-bar de ae92 gts(88-91). Il vous suffit d'avoir les bonne attache pour fixer la sway bar au frame du véhicule et vous devez souder des attache sur vos table pour y attacher les link kit de cette sway bar. Évidement, vous aurez besoin des link kit! Aller en acheter chez Carquest, Napa, Duso et d'autre marchant de piece. Ils sont beaucoup moins cher que ceux de toyota et son aussi bon(40$ aftermarket(en moyenne) vs 90$ pour ceux de toyota ). Personnelement j'ai des Altrom sur mon auto et je n'ai pas un mot a dire Frein Pour les frein arriere a disque, pour des ae92 sedan, vous pouvez vous procurer le knuckle et les hub, ainsi que les étrier de frein de ae92 gts 88-91. Tout fitte #1(coure a scrap ou JDM) :ATTENTION: La Proportionning valve fait pas braker l'avant tant que ta pas de pression dans le circuit de frein a l'arriere, quand ta des drum brake... Parce que les freins à tambour son plus long a réagir... Mais si vous mettez des disc brake sans enlever ça, ça freine en arriere avant l'avant pi a 120 sur l'autoroute c'est pas plaisant perdre le cul!!! Donc, vous devrez mettre une proportionning valve de char qui est déja 4 brake disque. Donc vous pouvez vous s'en procurer sur des célica 4 brake disc et corolla gts. Voici aussi une page de référence intéressante pour convertir vos drum brake a disque brake sur des corolla 98-00 (bravo) http://vamp.darkravers.net/cpg/index.php?cat=10

haha, vraiment utile le how-too!

ça serai bien une section do it yourself Question que les gens échange leur truc pour modifier leur auto ou pour les entretenir

Bienvenu avec nous le grand ;)

Ça pas de criss de sens.... ça se peu tu pas avoir de respect de meme :furieux:

1- jeandenisbisson (TeamCorolla) 2- Chako 3- Alex99 (TeamCorolla) 4- BuzZBunY (TeamCorolla) 5- RoCkaRolla 6- maxcorollarace 7- djdup 8- math 9- Nite 10- JazzMaster 11-PLTrolla06 12-Rookie_One(peut-être) 13- perrox666 (TeamCorolla) 14- Jrb74 (TeamCorolla) 15- Singlez (Club TRD) 16- Carlos Santana (Club Echo/Yaris) 17- Cabanon 18- beatquest_djnn 19- BellaRolla (TeamCorolla) 20- TiCaille (Club Echo/Yaris) 21- TargeT (Club Echo/Yaris) 22- steeven (Club Echo/Yaris) 23- parano (Club TRD) 24- Autoflex (peut-etre....) 25- compoundboy (peut-etre...) 26- fnf (peut-etre...) 27- styven05 (Club Echo/Yaris) 28- vince_ae92(vince3004/club Corolla) 29- goosy (TeamCorolla) 30- vince3004 (ClubTRD) 31- thrawn (ClubTRD) 32- Phoenix

Quitte a sacrifier un peu de rev pour du tork, moi je trouverai que ce serai un bon compromis. Sur une 6 vitesse close ratio, ça serai bien

J'ai bien hate de tourner la clef dans le contact, pour pouvoir y aller aussi