Olivier08

voici un petit text intéressant sur le sujet : Type 1 the first DHLA40 (no letter after) if you like the DCOE of the DHLA family, but boasts superior atomisation and tuning ability to the extra research at Dellorto…This carb has an idle jet (which also runs the progression and adds mixture at cruising) that is not connected to the main jet stack, the idle jet operates on its own from the float bowl. Also the idle jet air feed for the emulsion tube is ot fixed at a set size like later models…The main jets run on their own from the float bowl like the idle’s…This gives two seperate circuits that must be tuned for perfect overlap to get good cruise and pickup….This has the benefit on small engines and racing engines and hard tuned engines of giving the ability to make the idle jet progress long or short, you can bring the mains in early and cut back the progression on the idle jet air feed with differing jet holders with differing sized air holes, more air, bigger hole less progression….So you can tune this carb a million ways for million application, Fewsters just got a pair of these. They are the ulimate in tuneablity, they are also as a downside extremely hard to tune without a massive jet box or rolling road, cause they need to be bang on the money. This type of carb uses a .1 venturi which has a bigger pilot hole that the .2 and .3 (ill cover later), this means a bigger signal is generated in the venturi tube which gives a bigger signal (pulsing) to the main jet stack - the venturi feeds the main power circuit into the engine, the big jets. So the .1 vent can tuned to get on the mains right away from very low rpm and are super responsive to tuning, you can delay the vent by adjusting the tubes and air correctors on the main jet stack, so it needs more signal to start the stack feeding the vent or less setup the opposite way, so they can be tuned many ways also. Type 2 DHLA40E - These are the same as the DHLA40 with seperate circuits and use either 1 or 2 venturi, they have extra progression holes for the idle jet, so the progression phase can be increased in length (over more plate angle) to suit production cars, and aid economy, real smooth runners when setup with lengthy progression. The 2 vent is just like a 1 with tiny bit smaller bore size to the signal tube, so they have fitted .2 often in the E model as they have extended the progression phase and using the .2 vent means they don’t have to delay the mains as much as fitting the .1 vent, so making jetting easier and more responsive. The Elan +2 used these with the 1 vent as its punchy sports car, the Alfa’s used 2 vent and fitted the E model to flagship models with lazyier owners, who like crisp but relaxed power delivery. Power is equal on both types and they can both delivery the same results. Type 3 DHLA40F-G-H-N-R-S models. These are called emission completely different to the DCOE science, but noone really understands them and tries always to tune them like the early models. These differ because they have more progression holes and use the idle jet to feed most of the cruise phase and low rpm/low TP area of the engine AT ALL TIMES when the main jet isn’t in operation completely automatically no jetting needed. The idle jet has a very large fixed 2.2mm air feed, you cannot tune this phase of the carburetor for length like the others, but here lays the secrets…. The idle jet doesn’t feed from the float bowl, it feeds directly from the main jet stack, what happens after this is what gives these Dell’Ortos the sweetest road behaviour (what 25years of research came up with and not just for emissions) and dead easy tuning, you see when the main jet starts to emulsify fuel in the tube, the idle jet is feeding from it, so the gassy airy fuel shuts down the idle jet and sucks backwards yes BACKWARDS through the idle!! using every drip of fuel efficiently without ANY waste in circuit cross over where one is going after the other…this happens the moment the main jet fires, so there is NO need at all to tune the length of the progression and idle phase. This is pure magic they are automatically calibrated, you simply keep the idle jet above 59 up to 62 and not make the mistake of fitting numbers suited to the early DHLA or DCOE - with this simple technique you can tune anything from a 1300 to a 2000cc without really doing anything. The emulsion tubes in these carbs are always 8-10-11 and have to stay that way - which are really rich and have a hole straight down with loads of air holes, these atomise the fuel to an massive degree, also they have to be used cause the idle jet will not run correctly using the DHLA40-E type tubes (1-6-7-5) as the idle jet needs these airy tubes to function and cut out as designed…Usually people ram the DHLA40 idle holders with air holes in these carbs add the 1-6-5-7 style tubes and wonder why its a massive lean spot off idle, cause they missed the point completely!…These carbs use a .3 vent which has a very small signal tube to the main jet stack, this is because the holey tubes are basically ready to go from about 1250rpm (on my car using an 8tube 1 vent it was on the mains at 1250rpm!) so the holey tubes need holding back with a signal killing venturi…These carbs are wicked if you want bolt on power, they tune themselves! The early types are better in respect of punch and tuneability on odd applications but dont’ really do anything these late types won’t on all but the best engines…I have run em all! These carbs will give the maximum power available on any engine if you take time to tune them right, but they are a bit more suited to standard motors over 1500cc, motors with mild cams or standard cams and they operate best if you are using 30-33 chokes, they hate race engines, mad cams and mad chokes cause they they are designed mainly for hot production engines with a clear pulse strength to suit the retarded venturi and tubes - great where silk town driving and alike is paramount and you do commuting or just sunday driving, they also give superior economy to the early types. So the DCOE is the same as the DHLA40, but the DHLA40E and F-G-H-N-L-R-S are all evolutions of a principle and provided the application is matched to the carbs best qualities you have the ability to cater for everyones tastes and requirements using Dellorto…

ça fait un peu bricolage, de plus le point pivot devrait se situer au centre du pont.... probablement bricolage maison car pont banjo et je crois pas que l'on fabrique des watt pour banjo

je suppose que je ne vais rien t'apprendre, mais en fonction de l'année de fabrication (reconaissable à la lettre estampillée dessus), tu ne dois pas mettre les même jets. en gros soit tu as des carbus type 'alpha' et là tu dois mettre des très gros jet de ralenti, soit ce sont les autres et les jets sont +/- identiques à weber (en terme de numéro évidemment) tu peux avoir un bon conseil auprès de Matt de Dellorto.co.uk (eurocarb)

pour la carosserie ça pas l'air trop grave faudra aussi refaire la suspension/direction, espérer que le berceau a pas morflé... pas de bobo au radiateur

tiens je vois que tu es resté multi lame finalement le système à coulisseau sert à quoi c'est pour laisser un degrès de liberté vu que tu bloques le pont par les 4 tirants

bon annif

tu sais bien que l'on peut faire un peu tout et n'importe quoi en escort

euh sauf si je me trompe mais pour moi un English c'est un banjo (qui s'ouvre par l'avant), et donc si tu en as dans ta poubelle je viens les vider

et avant

et des photos de la bête en version hiver

trouver une 1600 sport ou rs2000 d'ici février, ca va pas être facile

euh, là je comprends pas trop pour le stock car je suis d'accord pour des voitures en fin de vie mais celle-ci n'a pas l'air si mal au point que ça

et c'est quoi???

suffit pas de savoir monter le moteur sur la boite il faut entre autre : - un échappement qui va bien (collecteur compris) - des supports moteurs qui vont bien - un berceau world cup - un carter modifié - un radiateur adapté et conduite de liason - le cablage - d'autres bricoles (cable embrayage, des petits supports,...) donc pour le moment 250€ de moteur et de l'ordre de 1500€ pour le reste. et il reste l'alimentation car le système d'origine ne passe pas dans une mk1... donc rampe de carbu avec manifold, jet, ...(1000€) et pour ceux qui veulent aller au top, throttle bodies, injecteurs, managment,.... (2000€)... Il y a 1 an il y avait un article complet dans classic ford sur le montage et où trouver les pièces ;-)

tiens, tu restes en multi lame?

quelqu'un du forum est occupé à faire ce genre de montage avec un 1.8 dans une mk1. montage assez répandu outre manche. mais faut pas croire que celà se fait tout seul... et pensez au coût de l'alimentation qui sera bien plus élevé que le moteur lui-même...

perso je suis aveec un équivalent bcf2, dellorto 40 et ça ronrone d'enfer tout en restant utilisable

salut michel

les photos prise par Kurt http://www.flickr.com/photos/30387670@N07/sets/72157622668846650/

super journée, très bonne organisation, road book bien fait, plein d'escort, autres ford, bm, porsche, alfa, buggy petit regret, pas de présence des escort de l'est du pays...

on veut agrandir la famille....

Je vends un jeu de disques ventilés neufs (type capri 2.8i) + plaquettes Mintex neuves. Prix : 100€

j'avais même pas remarqué

inscription remise

bon annif