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Le RDK est un système destiné à informer le conducteur en temps réel d'une crevaison rapide ou lente d'une des 4 roues du véhicule. Il est composé d’émetteurs (valves électroniques) sous fréquence 433Mhz situé dans chaque roue et d'un récepteur situé près du mastervac de frein dans le coffre avant coté conducteur. Le système n'est pas d'une fiabilité exemplaire avec de nombreux problèmes de désappairage de valves, problèmes de piles, refus de reconnaissance de valves, données erronées.... Les ingénieurs ont changés le système pour les voitures récentes en se basant sur un système bien plus simple qui est le capteur abs. En effet, lorsqu'une roue est crevée, la roue ayant un rayon plus faible , elle tourne plus vite qu'une roue gonflée à vitesse équivalente. la différence de vitesse est lue par le capteur ABS et le compare aux 3 autres roues. Biensur tout ceci est à titre indicatif, vous êtes responsable de ce que vous faites bref....pour désactiver le rdk il faut: un tournevis avec embout torx une clé de 10 câble duramétric avec PC en 1er, il faut débrancher le boitier gestion RDK. il est situé sous le capot avant. il faut retirer les vis torx tout le long du cache(voir photo). il est situé contre la carrosserie(voir photo carré rouge), fixé avec un écrou de 10 et le connecteur est violet. une fois le boitier débranché, remontez le ou retirez le selon votre utilisation(voiture exclusive piste ou piste/route). Remontez le cache du coffre avant. la partie mécanique est fini, maintenant c'est électronique. Je vous conseille fortement de faire une sauvegarde avant toute modification de vos codages. il faut aller AVANT de coder dans l'onglet "sauvegarder/restaurer". et faire "sauvegarder" branchez votre câble duramétric à la voiture. aller dans le menu "instrument cluster" et "codage". Modifier les options tpms comme indiqué sur l'image par les flèches rouges. aller ensuite dans "ajustage" juste en dessous, et cliquer la case "reset". cela va éteindre le tableau de bord et le remettre à zéro. ensuite il faut coder le can getaway. allez dans "getaway" et "codage". modifier comme indiqué flèche rouge sur l'image. couper le contact. retirer le câble. c'est fini

je cherche chez les torrents pour le moment je n'est rien trouvé en free

ok en cherchant un peu je pense qu'on va trouver ! vous pouvez tous faire une recherche !

question ce type de doc http://arma.free.fr/porsche/996/GT3/996%20Group%200%20General.pdf

je fais mes recherches pour voir si je trouve cette fameuse POSE en version free ..

Description How to replace on 997.1 2005 and 2006 years models, the infamous Starter and Alternator cable that prevents cranking up the engine when hot. Folks, Thanks to Equinox I managed to replace the infamous alternator/Starter cable on my 2006 C4S this past weekend. It took me about 5 hours, taking my time, exploring and cleaning up parts. It is a hell of a job, and I would not recommend this to anyone who has never entertained serious mechanical work on a car. Equinox in his great diary, gave a tons of details on that delicate procedure. I will not repeat what he explained and simply present my way of approaching the replacement by concentrating solely on the cable and not on the Air/Oil Separator (AOS). Also, my car required some slightly different tools sizes and I will indicate that as well. Thus, this is written as a tribute to Equinox, a great Porsche mechanic and I will be eternally grateful for a lot of his insights. I have used 3 or 4 of Equinox's pictures and I hope he will not mind it too much. The replacement cable can be obtained from Suncoast or your local stealer for the meager (for a Porsche part...) $100.00. Porsche must feel really bad, to make it so cheap. 1) First step is to place the rear wheels of your Porsche on ramps or use jack-stands to raise the rear wheels. Of course, use the handbrake and place the gearbox in park or in 1st gear (all wheel drive) and block your front wheels. I like the plastic ramps, the heavy duty ones, purchased at the local Auto Zone shop. The clearance is tight when I crawl under the car with my slider but I feel better and safer than placing the car on jack-stands. 2) Disconnect the battery and isolate the ground terminal. Now that the battery is no longer connected, it may be a good idea to prevent the full closure of the front trunk. A mishap can happen and will complicate the procedure. I use one of my wife's pajama as the cotton fabric is very soft. 3) Now, we can move to the back of the car. I like my ease and comfort, and honestly unless you have very long arms and do not mind smashing your face against the engine lid, it is more comfortable to simply remove it. Use 10 mm open and closed wrenches for that purpose. The most difficult thing is to part the connector located on the right side of the car, behind the rear right tail light, in the engine compartment. The pig tail is very short and really difficult to reach and to uncouple. The gas spring is removed after taking the air filter away, by removing the half circle shaped piece of steel on the chassis side, with a small flat screwdriver. Be careful not to loose it. Achtung!!!! The lid is really heavy and you may want to be careful when lifting it. 4) Now is the time to remove the air filter (actually, it had to be done first, before removing the lid) and the serpentine belt and this has been covered in another thread and thus will not be repeated here. For details see http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/997/268139-3-8-s-how-replace-air-filter-belt-less-than-one-hour.html The following picture is to remind the weak brains (like mine) how to re-assemble the serpentine belt. It is just odd how quickly we forget.... at our age. 5) First remove the throttle body and the plenum. For that, you will need an E12 socket and your favorite 7 mm closed wrench (I do not like screwdrivers on the hose clamps). Carefully, disconnect the servo connector on top of the throttle body and remove all four E12 bolts. Store preciously the body in a safe place. Now is a good time to clean it and verify that there is no oil on it. Mine was very dry, indicating a good working AOS. I did not try to push the flap open and resisted the curiosity. You can see on both sides, anyway. Then, loosen up the four hose clamps holding the plenum, with your 7 mm wrench. Push the rubber rings on each side, towards the manifolds so that the plenum in the middle can be easily removed. Before pulling like an animal, slide your hand underneath and behind and verify that there is nothing else attached to the rubber plenum. My C4S 2006 had nothing and it was very straight forward. 6) Using your slimmest fingers, turn the collar of the steering pump filler box counter clockwise. It is hard to reach. It should unlock and you just have to pull the whole steering fluid box up to remove it. Doing so will spill some of the steering oil (that precious Pentosin, hard to find in regular auto shops) on your engine. It may be a good idea to have a rag handy when doing that maneuver. Now things are getting clearer..... It is also a good idea to place some kind of cap on top of the steering pump opening. If something falls into it, it is going to ruin your day. I use shrink wrap and two rubber bands from my Newspapers carrier. 7) Let's gain as much room as possible and remove as many pipes and wires from the middle. The most irritating hose is the oil filler neck: it is always in the middle of what you do. We are now going to work on the alternator. Using an E-16 socket remove the lower left bolt holding the alternator. Then remove the top right bolt coupled with a pulley. At this stage the alternator is free and you can disconnect the main wire with a 13 mm socket and carefully remove the lower electrical connector (a light squeeze should do it). It may be necessary to pry carefully the alternator out of the holder using a large screwdriver. Pry near the ends of the alternator and not in the middle. Store the alternator with your throttle body, far away from the war zone..... These are very expensive parts and you do not want to damage them. Without the alternator, there is more room as shown below: Now is the time to get to the starter: Using your mighty strength, pull on the rubber boot covering the two cables. Then, and this is very important, disconnect the two plastic tubes located on the left side of the AOS box. Using your steel fingers, press real hard on the clips and pull carefully the two tubes out. These tubes will prevent you from gaining access to the starter and may get damaged when you try to remove the 13 mm nut from the starter. I used a 13 mm wrench to unlock the starter nut. Re-install the nut on the starter. At least this is one that you will not loose. Technically, the alternator cable could be pulled from underneath the car and all would be fine. But it is never so easy in the Porsche realm. Those @#$%^ of German engineers have installed one of their bullet proof clip right behind the AOS box. That clip holds the cable to the plastic gutter/channel routing all electrical connections to and through the engine. Your finger tips can touch it, you can guess it is there, but you cannot do anything about it. It took me half an hour of negotiations in an attempt to open it and I had a sample of the clip to study, as two are provided with the replacement cable. Finally, a sharp chisel and a good whack took care of the bloody part. The reason for all these troubles was that I did not want to go to the next step....and I should have.... 9) Removing the A/C compressor unit. That one is tricky and without Equinox I would have given up. The A/C unit holds by two E-12 bolts and a very secret E-14 bolt behind the can, absolutely invisible from any sides of the car. You have to know that it is there and find it. It is an act of faith, pure blind faith. The following pictures were taken by Equinox and depicts the evil genius of the German engineers: This bolt is reached as shown below, and is located on the left side of the A/C compressor, towards the top of the can. You will need a wobble (+/- 6 degrees) extension with your E-14 female torx attached to it. I use Facom for most of my tools and Facom sells such 3/8 inch extension for 12 Euros or about $15.00. It is a must have. Craftsman and others have this wobble extension, I am sure. You will also need need to disconnect the compressor wire (long brown wire on the top) from the harness. The connector is located on the right manifold, near the electrical channel and looks like a small clear plastic box with a single connector in it. The wire goes through the first arch of the right manifold. After pulling out carefully the compressor, let it rest on the side of the rear tail light. The lines are flexible enough that you can move it around. At this stage, you can feel the infamous clip that is holding the cable. The picture below taken by Equinox show the ugly clip, since Equinox removed the AOS box. In our case, the AOS is still there, untouched. By the way, you will not be able to remove the A/C compressor, if any length of the large E-14 Torx bolt is still in its hole. With tiny fingers, and a lot of patience, you have to lift that big bolt (it is impossible to remove it, it is too long) out of its location. 10) Let's back up a little bit and admire the disaster: there sits your $90K prize, completely hacked and in pieces..... A sinking feeling starts to grow in your stomach and your brain remembers the 800 number of AAA. They will have to come with a bed truck to take it to the nearest Porsche dealer..... The neighbors will be laughing and you will be the fool on the block. What a mess...... Since you are now kneeling on the floor with your dirty hands joined in supplication, let's take advantage of that position to fall completely on the ground and crawl under the car like a worm to discover the underworld: Before diving, in a survival reflex, your hands will have grabbed a TORX 20 screwdriver, a 10 mm and a 13 mm wrenches. Sliding on your back, remove the four Torx-20 screws holding the tray. They are recessed and look like this: Remove the tray under the engine and slide it to the side. Despite the dust and soot falling on your face and into your eyes, you now have a clear view of the other end of the cable, attached to the gear box: Pry open the box (from underneath) and it will reveal the Connection between the infamous cable and the battery cable. Use a 13 mm wrench to remove the bolt: The plastic box itself can be removed by taking off the two bolts located above it, with your 10 mm wrench. Crawling towards the rear of the car, you still have to remove two more bolts of 10 mm: Below is the second bolt. The first one is very easy to find, if you follow the cable from the junction. Once this is done and once you have managed to open the two clips holding the cable in the engine compartment (one is behind the AOS box, the second one is after the bend on the way down under), you can try pulling the cable from underneath. It is a good idea to put some tape around the Y of the starter end, in order to ease the extraction of the deceased part. Some help may be required (wife, girl friend, boy friend, ....etc). I find it easier to remove the cable from below, because of the plastic stiffeners used to clamp it to the gearbox. Now is the time to take a break. Beer, food, nap or a hug with your sweetheart: You worked hard and you deserve a treat. To install the new and improved cable, I found it easier to go back under the car and feed the cable up into the engine bay. Prior to this, I put some tape (or elastic bands) to keep the two ends of the Y together. Unless, you have some help on the receiving side, you are going to need a few trips back and forth between the surface and the underworld. The cable is stiff but can be bent to follow the plastic gutter/channel. First, reconnect the big end to the starter, being careful about how you route the sucker. Make sure all flows harmoniously. Then using a new clip, insert it to the plastic tab protruding next to where the cable disappear in the underworld. Close the clip and seal its fate. You will remember that the second plastic tab behind the AOS was whacked brutally and thus is no longer usable. Instead, we will use wire ties. I installed 4 of them along the path of the cable. The trick is to make sure that the cable stays in the gutter/channel and never comes in contact to the metal parts of the engine. Re-connect the two plastic hoses to the AOS. Let's not forget them as it will be very annoying later on. When happy with the routing of the cable, push the rubber boot above the starter connection and grab your alternator. Struggle to re-install it. I ended up filing a little bit the top holder and that made my life so much easier. As you will see, the assembly is very tight, where the pulley and the bolt go. By Filing the holder on the engine and/or the soft metal side of the alternator, you create some extra play that allows you to insert the alternator in a much easier way. Now is a good time to reconnect the small and single wire at the bottom and the unused end of the new alternator cable (13 mm wrench). Use your E-16 Torx female socket to lock the whole assembly in place. Again, take your time and check the routing of the cables. Check twice, assemble once. Next comes the re-assembly of the A/C compressor. Again, to re-insert, you will need to lift the E-14 long back bolt all the way up and make sure that the two front E-12 bolts line up fine. If they do, then just drop the E-14 rear bolt and it will fall in place in its hole. Then using your wobble extension and an E-14 socket, lock it in place. Finish with the two bolts in the front (E-12). Of course, the brown wire will have been routed carefully and connected to its receptacle. Otherwise, the summer will be very hot in the ****pit of your 911. Next comes the Steering Fluid tank. Just insert, and lock the ring clockwise. Finally the plenum and the throttle body. You know what to do by now. The serpentine belt is next. Again, a picture is provided for your comfort and peace of mind: Then, we end up re-installing the air filter and resonator box. Et voila: Clean up your hands, grab the ignition keys and jump on the seat: First turn, it growls!!!!!! Yeah......!!!!! Relief. The engine Lid can be re-installed later on being careful to not scratch the paint. Insert the bolts and adjust the position of the lid before locking them with your 10 mm wrenches. That concludes our session. I will report on the behavior when the engine is hot later on. First I need to find some Pentosin to refill to the prescribed level the steering fluid tank. I hope you enjoyed this tutorial and will make good use of it. It seemed daunting at first, but I don't regret it and feel more confident now about tackling other engine related tasks. Not that I am looking for it..... Yves Ok, I ran a few errands today and cranked a few times the engine while hot. It works like a champ. Smooth and firm start, not the croaking noise of an agonizing asthmatic like I used to get after taking gas for instance. Definitely a major improvement for me and the peace of mind to know that if I have to restart the engine immediately, it will happen right away. Additional bonus: confidence in my skills to maintain the 997.... Hey that is important too.[/

Description How to Replace. Here is how I replaced the micro-switch. Here is a picture of the switch. Here is the door. Use a torx socket to remove the handle. Remove the clip near the speaker. You can grab it and pull it out. This picture shows the torx bolt inside the removed clip. Now remove the clip on the end of the door. You can see another torx bolt. This shows the clip behind the door handle. You can see that I damaged it a little by using a screwdriver to pry it out. You can just push it and it will pop out. Now remove the mirror control. Start at the bottom. The top slides into a hinge. The last torx socket is located at the grab handle. You can see my thumb holding up the clip and a torx socket with an extension is in the door. No we see the interior off the door. Pry a litlle bit around the entire door until it snaps free. Then release a few electric items and a door pin. Here is the door with the interior off. You next want to undo about 9 to 10 torx bolts that hold the door cover on. Here is a clip I removed on the end of the door but you do not need to do this. Now you want to connect the electrical, the battery, and roll the window up. Then dis-connect the battery and the electrical. Reach into the door and undo two 10mm nuts. This will release the exterior handle. working from inside and outside, you can work the handle partly out. Here is a close up of the switch. You pry out the old one and install a new one and connect up the electrical. This picture shows the window up. It also shows the door plate undone. I had no reason to remove the door plate. The last picture shows the door back plate installed. Before you install the interior piece I found it easier to connect the electrical and battery and roll the window down. I then dis-connected the battery before I installed the interior piece. I found this project to be very hard and would not recommend this project to anyone who has not replaced a door window. It took me about two hours so it is not a long project. The bottom line is, my window problem was not solved and I will be looking into the lock switch next. Paul[/

Description Details to replace spring Here is how you replace the spring in the center console on a 2006 997S. The cost of the part was 87 cents. Here is a picture of the part. You remove eight torx screws to get the cover off. This is the cover off. Here is the cover. There were two different length screws but it does not matter where they go. Next you release tension on the spring. I have a torx socket resting on the spring release. The last step is to pull the hinge pin out. I used a vice grip and it worked real nice. Replace the spring and reassemble. This is a very easy task with a difficulty index of 1. I replaced the spring because the console door would rattle over bumps. The new spring works like a champ. Paul[/

AOS change 997.1 C2 By 911ct Find their other tutorials I've changed my AOS over the week end. I've attached a file describing my experience, in case you decide to change yours. Hope this helps. AOS change 2005 Porsche 911 After researching, I couldn't find any DIY for 997.1 model. The one thread found for the 997.1 on Renntech was for the S model (AOS was located in a very different spot-on the right behind the AC compressor). On my 2005 911 C2 the AOS is on the driver side in front of the intake manifold (same side as 996 models). I've found a couple of DIY for the 996s and I decided I wanted to try it myself. I want to say from the beginning, this was quite a difficult job due to the very limited space you have in the engine bay. Of note, I did not lowered the engine, I did not remove the driving belt, alternator or coolant tank. So, here are the steps: 1. Air filter box removal. 2. In preparation for Throttle Body(TB) and intake manifold removal, disconnection of several electrical plugs and hoses placed in front of the driver side air intake manifold and alternator(3 electrical connectors, a thin vacuum line, and 3 coolant lines). I've covered the plugs with painter's tape to keep them dust free and the coolant hoses with saran wrap and elastic bands to avoid coolant leak. Of note, before disconnecting the coolant hoses, I loosened the coolant tank cap to relieve the pressure. Here is a picture with the disconnection points(arrow marks the spot). 3. TB removal: I removed the TB and distributor pipe (the big plastic pipe the TB is connected) in one piece(did not separate them). To do that, I loosened the clamps that link the distributor pipe to the intake manifold(2 on each side). After that, I pushed the left rubber collar towards the left intake manifold. The right rubber collar I kept it on the distributor pipe. The rubber collars are quite difficult to push around but once you pushed them as much as they go you can remove the TB and distributor pipe in one piece(hence no need to have a new seal for TB). After TB/distributor pipe removal.in the back is the tuning pipe(mark the position before removal). 4. Removal of the big plastic tube behind the distributor pipe (tuning pipe). I used the same method as before when removing the distributor pipe. Loosened clamps and pushed the rubber collars toward the air intakes (left and right) and removed the tuning pipe. Care must be taken to preserve the vacuum hose attached to the back of the tuning pipe (it is connected to a piece that sits on the intake manifold right above the alternator-I unscrewed it and put it aside along with the tuning pipe; be careful not to lose a plastic insert that sits between the intake manifold and the little vacuum piece). Very important, before removing the tuning pipe, draw a line from the air intake manifold to the tuning pipe to be sure that you can mount it in the same position/orientation. I covered the two big holes towards the right intake manifold with a couple of rugs for protection. 5. Left air intake manifold removal. And the fun begins! There are 6 screws that need to be removed and as you imagine it will get increasingly difficult to get to them(the one furthest away seems impossible to get out). The space is extremely limited and the screw is located in a tiny space between AOS and intake manifold. I could not put a socket on it (hitting the AOS). The only way I could do It was with a 5/16" ratcheting wrench. This was the most difficult part(so far). When the last screw is out you can maneuver the manifold out, and finally you can see the AOS. Before I moved on, I covered the intake manifold holes with a lint free rug(imagine dropping something down there!). 6. The AOS is hold on top of the engine with 2 screws. There was no way I could access the AOS from under the car (like in the 996 DIY). The one in the back of the AOS is easy to feel and remove(I used the same 5/16'ratcheting wrench). The one in front was a different story. It was in a tiny space, under a thick wire and very difficult to get to it. I had to dive with both hands in the engine bay, feel it with the right hand, lift the wire and with the left hand come with the 5/16" wrench on it. It took a while(I was getting tired at this point) but I've got it. Now the AOs was hold down by the hose connectors. I cut the one that comes from the AOS bottom and bends 90 degrees to go into the engine(there was no way I could release the very difficult snap on clamps Porsche is using for its hoses). The 997 AOS is different than the 996 one. When I ordered my AOS from Pelican parts, I also ordered a new 90 degree connector(along with 3 intake manifold gaskets and a couple of screw type clamps). After I cut the 90 degree hose I could mobilize the AOS from the engine(now connected by 4 hoses). Carefully I pulled it towards the back of the car and disconnect the hoses(some may still have some residual coolant in them). So, finally half of the work is done! Pic of engine bay after AOS was out. 7. Mounting the new AOS was next. First, I've loaded 2 screw type hose clamps on the 90 degree hose that goes at the bottom of the AOS into the engine and mounted it to the engine. Next, I've taken the AOS, connect the big hose that goes on the base(left bottom). And fiddled with this assembly, trying to get it into the engine hole and the other hole of the 90 degree hose. It took a while, of course, but it can be done. Another pain was to tighten the clamps on the 90 degree hose, but again with perseverance it can be done. Next, the screw behind the AOS (do not tighten it yet) was a breeze. Now the front one was a different story. Remember it goes into a hole under a wire in a tiny space. I loaded the screw on a socket (using some painter's tape to hold it) and again diving with both hand deep into the engine bay I managed to find the hole. After the screw was in the hole I start to jiggle the AOS around(it was not tightened in the back) and hand tightened the front screw. Of note, the AOS is mounted slightly tilted on the engine towards the driver's side. This makes more difficult to find the right path for the screw. After the front screw was on the right path I tightened both back and front one. At the end I've connected the rest of the hoses on top of the AOS. 8. Mounting back the air intake manifold. Before that I've cleaned the manifold, tuning pipe, distributor pipe and TB with TB cleaner. I've mounted the gaskets and Very Important, preload the screw that goes towards the front of the car before attempting to position the manifold. After orienting the manifold into the position, before I attempted to fit the foremost(and most difficult ) screw I mounted the screw at the back of the manifold(closer to rear of the car) but not tightened it yet. Now I had a fixed screw(the one closer to the rear of the car) and I could move the manifold on a fixed path. I moved the manifold on the fixed path in small increments until the screw fell into its place. Next I had to reach back and hand screw it (finger screwed it) until I had enough clearance to slip the 5/16" and tightened it a little. Now, I removed the screw close to the rear of the engine and I could pivot the manifold a little, enough to make the install of the tuning pipe easier. Make sure you observe the marking you made before removing it, to have it in the same position. Do not tighten the clamps yet. Now install the remaining 5 screws for the intake manifold. Keep in mind that the manifold is plastic, so do not over tighten. Now you can tighten the clamps of the tuning pipe. Make sure there are no gaps between the tuning pipe and the manifold (the engine wont run -will start and die right away-believe me I found out the hard way). 9. Now, time to put back the TB/distributor pipe assembly. I've loaded the left rubber sleeve on the left manifold and the right one on the distributor pipe. Do not forget to preload the hose clamps…Put back the screw that holds the TB to the servo pump. 10. The last steps… connect the electrical plugs and the coolant hoses. Have fun with the Porsche hose clamps! 11. Time to put back the air box and… 12. Start the engine!!! 13. Congratulation! You did it!! Important to have: a magnetic pick up tool and a swivel mirror to see around the corners in the engine bay along with the 5/16" ratcheting wrench. Support Topic

Remarque: Les numéros de pièces changent parfois sans préavis. Vérifiez toujours auprès de votre fournisseur que vous avez les derniers numéros de pièces. Pièces dont vous aurez besoin: 1 ea 996 107 225 52 (ou 996 107 225 53) Filtre à huile (avec grand joint torique) 1 ea 999 707 465 40 Petit joint torique 1 ea 900 123 010 20 Bague d'étanchéité en cuivre - Réservoir d'huile 1 ea 900 123 118 30 Bague d'étanchéité en aluminium - Moteur 9 ea 996 106 665 55 Mobil 1 0W-40 ou équivalent (environ 8,5 litres (MY04 GT3 9,0 litres)) Huiles approuvées en juin 2004 La liste est maintenant très longue (pour une couverture mondiale). Voici une courte liste d'huiles populaires (États-Unis / Canada): Castrol Syntec 5W-50 5W-50 ncp G Castrol Syntec 5W-40 5W-40 ncp GL Mobil 1 0W-40 ncp GL (remplissage usine) Mobil 1 5W-40 ncp GL Mobil 1 5W-50 ncp GL Mobil 1 Formule Tri-Synthétique 0W-40 ncp GL Texaco Havoline Synthétique 5W-40 ncp GL Remarque: les huiles ncp sont des huiles synthétiques (ou "non conventionnelles"). Les huiles GL ont de bonnes propriétés de tenue à la lumière en raison de leur viscosité à basse température et d'un haut niveau de stabilité à la température. Les huiles classées G peuvent être utilisées comme huile non saisonnière, mais n'ont pas les mêmes propriétés de tenue à la lumière que les huiles «GL». Outils dont vous aurez besoin: Rampes de pneus ou jack Douille de 15 mm pour vidange du carter Clé de 27 mm et douille de 19 mm pour vidange de réservoir d'huile Clé pour filtre à huile (réf. 000 721 920 40) (outil 9204 environ 7 $ à 22 $ chez votre concessionnaire) image Bac à huile de plus de 9 pintes Clé dynamométrique (optionnelle) L'huile doit être changée lorsque le moteur a atteint sa température de fonctionnement normale. ATTENTION - l'huile sera chaude, prenez les précautions adéquates pour éviter d'être brûlé. Toujours éliminer l'huile usée conformément aux exigences légales locales. Utilisez des rampes ou montez le véhicule aux points prévus. Retirer la vis de vidange d'huile et recueillir l'huile moteur dans un récipient d'élimination (au moins 9 quarts). Attendez environ 20 minutes pour que l'ancienne huile s'écoule. Nettoyez ensuite la vis de vidange d'huile et revissez-la avec une nouvelle bague d'étanchéité en aluminium. Le couple de serrage est de 52 lb-pi. [b]Note: Part numbers sometimes change without notice. Always double check with your supplier that you have the latest part numbers.[/b] [b]Parts you will need:[/b] 1 ea 996 107 225 52 (or 996 107 225 53) Oil Filter (with large O-ring) 1 ea 999 707 465 40 Small O-ring 1 ea 900 123 010 20 Copper Sealing Ring - Oil Tank 1 ea 900 123 118 30 Aluminum Sealing Ring - Engine 9 ea 996 106 665 55 Mobil 1 0W-40 or equal (approx. 8.5 liters (MY04 GT3 9.0 liters)) [b]Approved Oils as of June 2004[/b] The list is now very long (for worldwide coverage). Here is a short list of popular oils (US/Canada): Castrol Syntec 5W-50 5W-50 ncp G Castrol Syntec 5W-40 5W-40 ncp GL [b]Mobil 1 0W-40[/b] ncp GL (factory fill) Mobil 1 5W-40 ncp GL Mobil 1 5W-50 ncp GL Mobil 1 Tri-Synthetic Formula 0W-40 ncp GL Texaco Havoline Synthetic 5W-40 ncp GL [b]Note:[/b] ncp oils are synthetic (or "non-conventional processing") oils. GL oils have good light running properties because of their light low-temperature viscosity as well as a high level of temperature stability. G rated oils can be used as non-seasonal oil, but do not have the same light running properties as "GL" oils. Tools you will need: Tire ramps or jack 15 mm socket for crankcase drain 27 mm wrench and 19 mm socket for oil tank drain Oil filter wrench (p/n 000 721 920 40) (tool 9204 about $7 to $22 at your dealer) image 9 plus quart oil catch pan Torque wrench (optional) Oil should be changed when the engine has reached normal operating temperature. [b]CAUTION - oil will be hot, take adequate precautions to avoid being burned.[/b] Always dispose of the waste oil in accordance with local legal requirements. [list="box-sizing: border-box; list-style-type: decimal;"] [*]Use ramps or jack up the vehicle at the points provided. [*] [*]Remove the oil drain screw and collect the engine oil in a disposal container (at least 9 quarts). [*] [*]Wait about 20 minutes for the old oil to drain. Then clean the oil drain screw and screw it back in with a new aluminium sealing ring. Tightening torque is 52 ft-lb. [*] [/list] [*][*][*] Retirer la vis de vidange du réservoir d'huile (19 mm) tout en maintenant l'écrou au-dessus avec une autre clé (27 mm) (ceci évite de tordre le réservoir lui-même). Recueillir l'huile moteur dans un récipient d'élimination. Attendez environ 20 minutes pour que l'ancienne huile s'écoule. Ensuite, nettoyez la vis de vidange du réservoir d'huile et revissez-la avec une nouvelle bague d'étanchéité. Le couple de serrage est de 44 lb-pi. [list="box-sizing: border-box; list-style-type: decimal;"] [*]Remove the oil tank drain screw (19 mm) while holding the nut above it with another (27 mm) wrench (this avoids twisting the tank itself). Collect the engine oil in a disposal container. Wait about 20 minutes for the old oil to drain. Then clean the oil tank drain screw and screw it back in with a new sealing ring. Tightening torque is 44 ft-lb. [*] [/list] [*] Retirez le filtre à huile à l'aide de la clé pour filtre à huile. Retirez et jetez l'ancien élément du filtre à huile. [list="box-sizing: border-box; list-style-type: decimal;"] [*]Remove the oil filter using the oil filter wrench. Pull off and dispose of the old oil filter element. [*] [/list] [*] Nettoyez soigneusement le boîtier du filtre à huile à l'intérieur et à l'extérieur et remplacez les deux joints toriques. Les nouveaux joints toriques seront plus faciles si une quantité d'huile légère est sur eux. Ne les mettez pas avec un tournevis ou tout autre objet pointu car un objet pointu endommagera le joint torique. [list="box-sizing: border-box; list-style-type: decimal;"] [*]Clean the oil filter housing thoroughly inside and outside and replace the two O-rings. The new O-rings will go on easier if a light amount of oil is on them. Do not put them on with a screwdriver or other sharp object as a sharp object will damage the O-ring. [*] [*]Retirer la quantité restante d'huile du carter du filtre à huile par aspiration. [*] [*]Installez le nouvel élément de filtre. [*] [*]Appliquez légèrement de l'huile sur les filets du carter. Installez le boîtier du filtre à huile et serrez-le à 19 lb-pi. [*] [*]Remplir d'huile moteur. La quantité de changement d'huile est d'env. 8,5 litres (MY04 GT3 9,0 litres) après un temps de vidange d'env. 20 minutes. [*] [*]Remove the remaining quantity of oil from the oil filter housing by suction. [*] [*]Install the new filter element. [*] [*]Lightly apply oil to the housing threads. Install oil filter housing and tighten to 19 ft-lb. [*] [*]Fill with engine oil. The oil change quantity is approx. 8.5 liters (MY04 GT3 9.0 liters) after a draining time of approx. 20 minutes. [*]

ok je savais pas ! tu as regardé les téléchargements du site de flat69 ? http://www.flat69.fr/documentation-porsche-lyon/manuels/9861000.pdf

le POSE .. ?? c'est quoi comme doc ?

Le retrait du pare-chocs avant est vraiment facile et vous donne accès à un bon nettoyage de vos radiateurs. J'ai dû retirer le radiateur gauche et le ventilateur en même temps. Alors, voici le processus .... Espérons que cela aidera quelqu'un ... Péage nécessaire: Tournevis Philips # 2 Tournevis Torx 030 Tournevis Tork 025 Prise 13 et 16mm Pour faire un bon nettoyage du radiateur avant ... (pistolet à rivets Pop + six rivets pop 1/8 de diamètre 3/8 pouces de long) +++ Enlèvement de couverture: Sortez les deux marqueurs latéraux. (Un tournevis fin presse le clip vers la police de la voiture) Vous découvrirez une vis derrière et un écrou clip (qui n'a pas été utilisé sur ma voiture, le garde-boue intérieur doit être retiré pour avoir accès à cette vis ...) The front bumper cover removal is really easy and give you access for a good cleanup of your radiators. I had to remove the left radiator and the fan at the same time. So here is the process….Hope this will help anyone... Toll needed: Philips screwdriver #2 Torx screwdriver 030 Tork screwdriver 025 Socket 13 and 16mm To do a good clean-up of the front radiator… (Pop rivet gun + six 1/8 diameter pop rivets 3/8 inch long) +++ Cover removal: Take out both side markers. (thin screwdriver press the clip towards the font of the car) You will discover a screw behind and a clip nut (that was not used on my car, front inner fender needs to be remove to get access to this screw...) En bas de la roue, vous avez une vis de chaque côté. plus facile à obtenir si la roue est enlevée ... In front of the wheel , at the bottom, you have a screw on each side. easier to get at if wheel removed... Maintenant, à l'avant, vous avez le capteur de température extérieure. Il suffit de le pousser vers l'arrière et il sortira de son support .... Now in front right side you got the outside temperature sensor. Just push it to the aft and it will pop out of his holder…. Ouvrez le coffre avant et retirez les quatre petites vis en plastique (1/4 de tour) et enlevez soigneusement ce revêtement plastique allant de l'ensemble des phares gauche vers la droite ... Open the front trunk and remove the four small plastic screws cover (1/4 turn) and remove carefully this plastic liner going from the left headlights assembly to the right side... Sous ce revêtement, vous trouverez deux vis. Retirez-les ... (Torx 030) Under this liner you will found two screws. Remove them…(Torx 030) Maintenant, sous l'avant de la voiture, vous trouverez quelques vis Torx 030 et Philips ... Quatre de chaque côté (3 torx et un philips) et trois au milieu ... Retirez-les. Now under the front of the car you will found some Torx 030 and philips screws…Four on each side (3 torx and one philips) and three in the middle...Remove them. Maintenant, vous pouvez soigneusement retirer la couverture de pare-chocs ... .Risk de grattage est élevé. Faites attention…. Now you can carefully take out the bumper cover….Risk of scratching is high. Be careful…. Sous la couverture de pare-chocs, vous avez des conduits. Deux pour les radiateurs latéraux et un pour l'avant. Pour obtenir un accès approprié au nettoyage, l'enlèvement des conduits est nécessaire .... Les conduits du radiateur latéral sont fixés à l'aide de deux vis situées à l'avant et à l'intérieur des conduits. Under the bumper cover you got some ducts. Two for the side radiators and one for the front. To get proper access to clean up removal of the ducts is required…. The side radiator ducts are attach with two screws located in front and inside the ducts. Soyez prêt pour une surprise lorsque les conduits sont enlevés ;-) Les conduits des radiateurs latéraux sont tenus par deux vis chacun. Remarque Le petit radiateur devant le grand est le condenseur de la climatisation. Il est tenu avec 4 équipages au radiateur ... .Retirez-les pour vous donner un peu plus d'accès pour nettoyer correctement les radiateurs latéraux! Be ready for a surprise when the ducts are removed ;-) Side radiators ducts are held by two screws each. Note The small radiator in front of the big one is the condenser for the air conditioning. It is held with 4 crews to the radiator ….Remove them to give you little bit more access to clean the side radiators properly! Retirez le renfort avant du pare-chocs en aluminium. (2 boulons verticaux avec une douille de 16 mm) Notez le couple de 63 ftlb lors de la réinstallation ... Remove the front aluminum bumper reinforcement. (2 vertical bolts with a 16 mm socket) note 63 ftlb torque at reinstallation... Maintenant que vous avez enlevé les deux radiateurs latéraux, l'avant est retenu par des rivets. J'ai décidé de l'enlever et j'en étais vraiment content car certaines parties du radiateur avant étaient impossibles à nettoyer en place .... Utilisez simplement une perceuse (1/ et percez les 6 rivets. Le haut ou le bas ne sont pas devant le noyau du radiateur, donc ne vous inquiétez pas d'endommager quoi que ce soit derrière ces rivets ... Deux angles en aluminium feront partie de l'appareil ... Now that you have both side radiators duct removed, the front one is held by rivets. I've decided to remove it and was really happy about it because some part of the front radiator were impossible to clean with it in place…. Simply use a drill (1/ and drill the 6 rivets out. The top or bottom one are not in front to the radiator core so don't worry about damaging anything behind those rivets… Two aluminum angles will be part of the fixture…. Vous pouvez également retirer le conduit de sortie du radiateur avant si vous utilisez de l'eau pour le nettoyage You can also remove the outlet duct for the front radiator if you are using water for cleaning…. Maintenant que vous avez toutes les pièces devant les radiateurs, il est très facile d'avoir accès à l'un des trois radiateurs. Le devant est droit mais les côtés ont besoin d'un appareil à enlever. Now that you have all the parts in front of the radiators removed it is really easy to get access to any of the three radiators. The front one is straight forward but the side ones need a fixture to be removed. Arrêtez d'abord l'écoulement du fluide avec une pince à étau et une plaque métallique pour éviter d'endommager les tuyaux en caoutchouc ... First stop the flow of fluid with vise grip and metal plate to prevent damaging the rubber pipes... Maintenant, retirez les trois clips de tuyaux et le connecteur électrique du ventilateur ... Un pour l'alimentation pour le retour et un petit caché à l'arrière pour l'évent ... .Sur l'installation, laissez les clips en place et quand vous mettez les tuyaux en place vous entendra un petit clic. Cela signifie que les tuyaux sont sécurisés en place ....[u][/u] Maintenant, retirez les trois clips de tuyaux et le connecteur électrique du ventilateur ... Un pour l'alimentation pour le retour et un petit caché à l'arrière pour l'évent ... .Sur l'installation, laissez les clips en place et quand vous mettez les tuyaux en place vous entendra un petit clic. Cela signifie que les tuyaux sont sécurisés en place .... Now remove the three pipes clips and the fan electrical connector…One for the supply one for the return and a small one hidden in the back for the vent….On the installation leave the clips in place and when you put the pipes in place you will hear a small click. That means the pipes is secure in place…. Maintenant, seul l'appareil arrière doit être retiré pour l'enlèvement du radiateur latéral ... .Retirez les deux clips sur la partie arrière des broches de retenue du radiateur et l'autre dans la partie avant du radiateur. (J'utilise un tournevis pour libérer le verrou et un poinçon central pour forcer le clip ...) Retirez également le boulon avant de la monture arrière Now only the aft fixture has to be remove for side radiator removal….Remove the two clips on the radiator holding pins aft portion and one in the forward portion of the radiator. (I use a screwdriver to release the lock and a center punch to force the clip out…) Also remove the forward bolt of the aft mount... Maintenant, retirez les boulons et vis qui maintiennent l'appareil en place. Attention le radiateur peut venir en même temps. Note: J'ai utilisé un peu d'huile de démoulage sur les œillets des radiateurs (3) pour faciliter le glissement des œillets sur les broches Now remove the bolts and screw that hold the fixture in place. Be careful the radiator might come at the same time.Note: I have used i little bit a release oil on the radiators grommets (3) to facilitate the sliding of the grommets on the pins…. Maintenant, le radiateur peut glisser à l'arrière ... Pour retirer le ventilateur du radiateur, enlevez les deux vis et faites-le glisser vers la gauche ... Remarque: J'ai été en mesure de faire glisser l'ensemble du ventilateur avec le radiateur en place. Il n'est pas nécessaire d'enlever le radiateur pour remplacer l'assemblage du ventilateur, mais l'enlèvement de la fixation du radiateur arrière est nécessaire Now the radiator can slide out in the back…To remove the fan from the radiator,remove the two screws and slide it out to the left side…Note: I was able to slide out the fan assembly with the radiator in place. There is no need to remove the radiator to replace the fan assembly but the removal of the aft radiator fixture is required…. Pour ton information. J'ai trouvé que la ligne du lave-phare était complètement desserrée juste au-dessus du renfort de pare-chocs. L'emballage de cravate est une bonne chose car maintenant il n'y a plus de frottement ou de cliquetis sur quoi que ce soit. For your information. I have found the line for the headlight washer completely loose just over the bumper reinforcement Tie wrapping is a good thing because now there are no more rubbing or rattling on anything….